Acne Booster Set

What each ingredient does

• Acacia Senegal Gum: Film forming

  Also known as gum arabic, acacia gum is a natural gum consisting of the hardened sap of two species of the acacia tree. In cosmetics, acacia gum is used for it's ability to create less stringy, or slimy and sticky, gels. The acacia gum we use is ethically and sustainably handpicked in Africa, and is a 100% renewable raw material.

• Aqua: Solvent

  Water. The main vehicle for our water based products

• Betaine: Humectant and skin conditioning

  Betaine is highly purified sugar beet extract, chemically speaking an amino acid derivative, that maintains skin moisture balance and strengthens the skin barrier even under very dry conditions. It is a so-called osmolyte, controlling water balance in living cells. The one we use is made from Finnish sugar beets.

• Caprylyl Glycol: Skin conditioning and emollient

  Caprylyl Glycol is an fatty alcohol derived from caprylic acid, which is naturally found in palm and coconut oils. It’s a humectant (like glycerin), i.e. a hydrating ingredient that works by attracting water to and holding it in the skin. It improves absorption, spreadability and the feel of a product on skin, and is also an antimicrobial, with preservative-like properties. And this is what it does in the Concentrate – boost the power of our main preservative, sodium dehydroacetate.

• Citric Acid: Buffering agent

  Citric acid is a commonly used buffering, i.e. pH adjusting, agent in cosmetics. It is made through bacterial fermentation and shifts the pH of the product into the acidic range. This is closer to the natural pH of the skin, which may range from 4 to 7, but is usually thought to be between 5 and 6, with recent studies, however, indicating it to be below 5.

• Copper PCA: Humectant and skin conditioning

  Copper PCA is also antimicrobial, astringent, sebum regulating and fights impurities. The copper salt of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic acid or L-PCA is obtained by the cyclization of L-glutamic acid, amino-acid from vegetal origin. Gives the product a slight blueish colour.

• Ectoin: Skin conditioning

  Ectoin is a powerful, small, multi-tasking and natural stress-protection molecule, a so-called extremolyte. From a chemical point of view, it is a cyclic amino acid derivate. Extremolytes protect extremophilic microorganisms and plants from the extreme conditions of their habitats like salt lakes, hot springs, permanent ice or deserts. The properties of ectoin have been proven by various in-vivo studies: its benefits include long-term moisturisation, diminished skin roughness, skin barrier repair and anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties. We get ours from a lovely little company in Germany, where it is produced through biotechnological fermentation from a specific, non-GMO strain of the halophilic bacteria Halomonas elongata.

• Gluconolactone: Skin conditioning

  Gluconolactone is a gentle, exfoliating and regenerating polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that does not irritate the skin even at the 10% concentration we use it at in the Exfoliating Essence. It's an effective but gentler alternative to the widely used glycolic acid (alpha hydroxy acid, AHA) thanks to its larger molecular size – gluconolactone does not absorb as deeply into the skin, and therefore regenerates the skin without irritating it. At the same time, gluconolactone moisturises the skin, fades fine lines and strengthens the skin's protective barrier.

• Glycerin: Humectant and skin protecting

  Technically a sugar alcohol, glycerin is one of the oldest, most common and most versatile humectants used in cosmetics. It moisturises and protects the skin, accelerates skin barrier recovery and has antimicrobial properties, among other things. We use vegetable, rapeseed-derived glycerin.

• Propanediol: Solvent and humectant

  Apart from being an excellent, non-irritating solvent, the glycol propanediol has excellent hydrating and preservative boosting properties. The one we use is made from fermentation of glucose, from corn.

• Silica (Algica): Absorbent

  Mesoporous silica, trade named Algica and derived from cultivated diatoms (algae) od Swedish origin, that absorbs impurities and bacteria. It improves skin's moisture retention by its ability to bind water, in a manner similar to hyaluronic acid. Its porous structure supports oil and moisture absorption, hydration, protection against UV and pollutants, and an enhanced sensory feel.

• Sodium Hydroxide: Buffering

  Sodium hydroxide is used in skincare products at a very low level to adjust the products pH to the appropriate level, making it safe for use.

• Xanthan Gum: Thickening, gel forming and emulsion stabilising

  A natural and commonly used mainly thickener and gelling agent in cosmetics, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced through Bacterial fermentation of pure culture Xanthomonas Campestris with protein and carbohydrate sources, in this case from soy or corn.

• Xylitol: Humectant and skin conditioning

  Xylitol is a sugar alcohol and moisturises and conditions skin, whilst possessing anti-bacterial properties. There is some interesting research that suggests xylitol has the ability to inhibit bacterial biofilm on skin, which in turn may be the cause of many skin issues. The one we use is made in Finland from Finnish oats, and has probiotic properties.

• Zinc PCA: Humectant and skin conditioning

  Zinc PCA regulates sebum production, reinforces the skin's barrier function and fights pimples. The zinc salt of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic acid or L-PCA. L-PCA is obtained by the cyclization of L-glutamic acid, amino-acid from vegetal origin.