Aqua, Zinc Oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate/Polyricinoleate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Glycerin, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Triethyl Citrate, Calcium Carbonate, Magnesium Sulfate, Ectoin, Silica, Dehydroacetic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum , Citric Acid, Phytic Acid
Aqua
Solvent. Water. The main vehicle for our water based products
Zinc Oxide
UV-filter. Zinc oxide (ZnO) is a crystalline inorganic (mineral) white powder that finds use in a large array of applications as a bulking agent, white pigment, UV filter as well as a medication for irritated skin. The crystalline nature of zinc oxide means that the shape and size of the powder particles defines its physical properties, including UV absorption. For sunscreens, most ZnO used is coated with protective materials (such as dimethicone) to increase stability. Thus, the concentration of ZnO needed for adequate sun protection highly depends on the specific raw material. Since zinc oxide is also used to help soothe angry skin and does not generally cause skin reactions, we chose it as our sole UV filter. Another benefit of zinc oxide is that it usually does not cause eye sting.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Solvent. Skin conditioning. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is the mixed triester of glycerin and caprylic and capric acids. Obtained from coconut (but NOT the same as coconut oil!), 'trigly' is an effective solvent for zinc oxide and a great, overall skin conditioner for most types of skin, including very breakout prone malassezia skin. Our SPF filter is dispersed in caprylic/capric triglyceride.
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
Skin conditioning. Emollient. Shea Butter Ethyl Esters are obtained by the transesterification of Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter and ethyl alcohol.
Propanediol
Solvent and humectant. Apart from being an excellent, non-irritating solvent, the glycol propanediol has excellent hydrating and preservative boosting properties. The one we use is made from fermentation of glucose, from corn.
C9-12 Alkane
Solvent. Commonly used in skincare. Offers structure and stability to our Cream and works as a silicone replacement. Plant-based.
Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate/Polyricinoleate
Surfactant. Emulsifying. An emulsifier, put simply, enables the mixing of water and oil into an emulsion, i.e. a cream. This particular one is gentle on the skin, non-ionic, and based on olive oil.
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Light stabiliser. Controls viscosity and structure in our cream. Based on naturally occurring clay mineral hectorite.
Glycerin
Humectant and skin protecting. Technically a sugar alcohol, glycerin is one of the oldest, most common and most versatile humectants used in cosmetics. It moisturises and protects the skin, accelerates skin barrier recovery and has antimicrobial properties, among other things. For our Cream we use vegetable, rapeseed-derived glycerin.
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Surfactant. Emulsifying. An emulsifier, put simply, enables the mixing of water and oil into an emulsion. This one stabilises our SPF filter. Plant-based.
Triethyl Citrate
Plastisier. Solvent. Viscosity controlling. Lends structure and stability to our Cream. Plant-based.
Calcium Carbonate
Bulking. Opacifying. Calcium carbonate is the salt of calcium and is naturally found in e.g. chalk and limestone. It lends that "dry skin" feel to our cream without actually drying out skin and also works as a blurring agent.
Magnesium Sulfate
Bulking. Viscosity controlling. Salt of magnesium. Stabilises and thickens our Cream.
Ectoin
Skin conditioning. Ectoin is a powerful, small, multi-tasking and natural stress-protection molecule, a so-called extremolyte. From a chemical point of view, it is a cyclic amino acid derivate. Extremolytes protect extremophilic microorganisms and plants from the extreme conditions of their habitats like salt lakes, hot springs, permanent ice or deserts. The properties of ectoin have been proven by various in-vivo studies: its benefits include long-term moisturisation, diminished skin roughness, skin barrier repair and anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties. We get ours from a lovely little company in Germany, where it is produced through biotechnological fermentation from a specific, non-GMO strain of the halophilic bacteria Halomonas elongata.
Silica
Thickening. Silica is a mineral found abundantly in sandstone, clay, and granite, as well as in parts of plants and animals. It’s often used as an absorbent powder, i.e. a mattifying agent, in cosmetics. It is derived from sodium silicate which is acidified, then filtered, washed and dried.
Dehydroacetic Acid
Preservative. Dehydroacetic acid is chemically synthesized through a multi-step reaction, starting with acetylene. Although it is not plant derived, it is approved by natural certification institutes such as COSMOS thanks to its mildness to the skin and body, as well as the absence of any alternative registered (approved) natural preservatives under the EU cosmetic regulation. Together with potassium sorbate, sodium levulinate and p-anisic acid it makes up the preservative system in our Essence.
Sodium Hydroxide
Buffering. Sodium hydroxide is used in skincare products at a very low level to adjust the products pH to the appropriate level, making it safe for use.
Sclerotium Gum
Thickening, skin conditioning and emulsion stabilising. A natural and commonly used thickener in cosmetics, sclerotium gum too is a polysaccharide produced from sugars through fermentation. This one gets its name from the Sclerotium rolfsii bacteria species. In our Cream, it is combined with xanthan gum, lecithin, pullulan and silica to lend that lovely gel meets cream feel. Origin: glucose syrup from wheat/corn.
Xanthan Gum
Thickening, gel forming and emulsion stabilising. A natural and commonly used mainly thickener and gelling agent in cosmetics, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced through Bacterial fermentation of pure culture Xanthomonas Campestris with protein and carbohydrate sources, in this case from soy or corn. In our Cream, it is combined with sclerotium gum, lecithin, pullulan and silica to lend that lovely gel meets cream feel.
Citric Acid
Buffering agent. Citric acid is a commonly used buffering, i.e. pH adjusting, agent in cosmetics. It is made through bacterial fermentation and shifts the pH of the product into the acidic range. This is closer to the natural pH of the skin, which may range from 4 to 7, but is usually thought to be between 5 and 6, with recent studies, however, indicating it to be below 5.
Phytic Acid
Chelating. A chelating agent improves product stability. This one is a natural alternative to the widely used EDTA.
